I can't claim that this is a British dish in the slightest but it somehow it conjures up a very British aura. Rice pudding is probably about as universal a dessert as you'll find, having a browse on the web I found references to Spain, Scandinavia, Italy and the Middle East. However, to me it conjures up winter in this country, steaming rice pudding with an enormous blob of jam in the middle making the whole dish go pink after you'd mixed it all up. I was thinking about how I'd probably be a bit ill if I attempted to eat that much jam in one go these days and I tried to figure out something that would keep the same vibe but not be quite so sweet. I had some cooking apples knocking around so stewed them with sultanas and cinnamon to add a more adult sharpness to the pudding. Here was a combination that really worked as an autumnal treat, the soft sweet milk tones cut with an apple sharpness and cinnamon warmth, like the smell of burning leaves in November with a hint of Christmas in the air.