Sunday, December 03, 2006

Konstam at The Prince Albert


Oliver Rowe has opened Konstam in an odd spot in King's Cross. It sits on a pretty nondescript street surrounded by, well not that much, to be honest. The opening of the restaurant has been the subject of a BBC documentary called the Urban Chef since it is the chefs intention that the restaurant use only produce that is reachable on the Underground. I don't know how exacting Mr Rowe is about that claim but the sentiment is one I appreciate and it gave me a real kick to see things like Roast Waltham Abbey Chicken and Amersham Mutton on the menu.

Even though the surrounding streets might be a touch insalubrious (and how I love that word) the space itself is a really great one. The kitchen is open, very open. The whole restaurant feels like an someones very out sized kitchen dining room with very little separation between kitchen and dining room. It's probably one of my new few favourite spaces, the British racing green walls and the quite amazing chain mail chandeliers are stunning.

It was a slow Saturday lunch time when we sat down and the chef and sole serving staff were relaxed, yet still attentive. The food here hasn't quite settled into it's surroundings I don't think. There were some stunning dishes and others were a little haphazard. The flavours come though clean and pure and it's the kind of cooking that relies on the simplicity and quality of it's ingredients. I just think it needs some bedding down and a little more care and it could be an absolute gem.

Konstam at The Prince Albert: 2 Acton Street, London, WC1X 9NA T: 020 7833 5040


Anonymous said...

I'm enjoying your writing. It's interesting you've chosen to eliminate recipes, it gives you a focus not found elsewhere.

One small correction re: Konstam. You're missing a "not": salubrious means pleasant... Unless King's Cross has changed a lot... in which case please ignore.

Monkey Gland said...

or missing an "in", in fact!

Cheers anon.